Vintage snobbery: Are wine critics fooling us into buying pricier bottles?
“There’s almost nowhere where the bulls–t goes deeper than in the wine world,” says Robin Goldstein, a U.S.-based wine writer who is trained as a sommelier and who has got under the skin of the wine establishment more than once. For example, in 2008 he used a large set of blind tastings to demonstrate that only people who have wine training prefer expensive wines to cheap ones. Mr. Goldstein has long argued that in blind taste tests, ordinary wine drinkers like cheap wine as much as — or even more than — expensive wine. Meanwhile, he and other rebels in the world of wine criticism argue that magazines, websites and competitions are rigged, consciously or not, to give pricier wines better reviews. (Photo: David Silverman/Getty Images/Files)